Introduction
Let’s talk about a tool that’s built for one job and one job only: getting your PET bottle blowing line humming. We designed these halogen infrared heat lamps to do one thing exceptionally well—deliver a blast of focused, radiant heat. Its whole purpose is to get that PET parison warmed up just right, right before it’s stretched. Forget about a general-purpose heater that tries to do everything. This is a precision instrument, born for the relentless pace of blow molding.
What’s Under the Hood
Let’s get into the details, because they’re what matter when you’re on the line. We’re talking serious power here, with units running at either 2500W or 3000W. You can run them off a 230V or 400V line. That choice is a big deal. If you go with the 400V option, you’re looking at a lower amp draw for the same wattage. That means you can use smaller wiring and cheaper contactors. Smart, right? And the 300mm tube length? It’s not an accident. It gives you a tight, focused heating zone that hits the parison exactly where it needs to be, without turning the rest of your machine into a sauna.
The Build That Takes the Heat
The heart of this thing is a quartz tube, filled with halogen gas. This is what keeps the filament stable, even when it’s screaming hot. No more worrying about it burning out on you like a standard bulb. See that gold coating on the tube? It’s not just for looks. It’s a reflector, bouncing all that IR energy forward. That doubles the heat density right onto the PET surface and keeps the heat off the sensitive parts of your machine behind it. And when a lamp does eventually need replacing, the R7s connector makes it a breeze. It’s a secure, two-contact setup that handles the high current, and you can swap it out in seconds—no tools needed.
What It Feels Like on the Floor
Here’s the payoff. On the shop floor, this thing is fast. Seriously fast. It hits the target temperature almost instantly, which gives you total control over the pre-heat profile. That’s how you keep wall thickness consistent and avoid those weak spots that ruin a run. Now, packing this much power into a 300mm tube does create a lot of localized heat. So you just need to make sure your machine’s cooling system is up to the task of handling the extra warmth around the lamp housing. This lamp is a workhorse. It’s a direct, drop-in replacement, built to handle the constant on-and-off of continuous production without blinking.